Difficulty: INTERMEDIATE-ADVANCED
Time: 4-5 HOURS
Distance: 4.5-5 MILES
Elevation Gain: 2000 FEET
Foot Traffic: LOW
Challenges: Steep scrambles with loose dirt, Narrow ridges with steep dropoffs, Rock scrambling, Overgrown
Sights: The Mokes, K-Bay, Three Peaks, Koko Head, Diamond Head, Honolulu
What to Bring: Good Amount of Water, Snack, Sunscreen, Long Sleeves/Pants, Shoes with good grip
This challenging ridge hike takes you to one of the prominent peaks of the Ko'olau Mountain Range, Pu'u O Kona. It begins on the popular and well maintained Kuli'ou'ou Ridge Trail where you follow a series of switchbacks through the forest to gain elevation and reach the ridge. You then climb several man-made stairs to reach the summit of the trail. From here, the hike gets more advanced as you will be venturing to unsanctioned territory with narrow ridge hiking, rock scrambling, and overgrown trails. However, the risk is worth the reward because once you reach Pu'u O Kona you will be able to experience some amazing views of the island. If you catch the peak when it's not cloudy, you can see downtown Honolulu, Diamond Head, Koko Head, and many windward landmarks such as Three Peaks and the Mokes. After taking your fill of the views, you will head back down the western ridge of Kuli'ou'ou before descending back into the trees to get back to where you started.
This hike will always have a special place in my heart. The first time I did this hike was with my friend Peter, shortly after I moved to the island. Neither of us had much experience with ridge hiking of any sort, let alone Hawaii ridge hiking, it was just a hike that looked doable from hik3beasthawaii's writeup. Once we had passed Kuli'ou'ou Summit and were on our first descent along a narrow ridge, we realized why Hawaii ridge hiking is no joke. Climbing up and down those ridges, with huge dropoffs on either side and the beautiful Pacific Ocean in the background was unlike anything we had ever experienced. We were both hooked. It was only fitting that a year later I returned to this hike to relive those feelings another time.
Here's a rough sketch of the hike. It begins on the main Kuliouou Ridge Trail (the path to the right) along many switchbacks before you reach the ridge. That is by no means the exact number of switchbacks, I was just showing a visual representation that on your return trip on the west ridge, there are no switchbacks. You simply go straight down the ridge. The top left corner of the red trail is our destination-- Pu'u O Kona.
The hike starts at the end of Kalaau Road. You can park anywhere along that road, just not in the Cul-de-sac at the end. Go past this gate and head straight along the road to reach the trailhead.
For the most part, the Kuli'ou'ou portion of this trail is well marked. This is the only portion that I feel isn't clear. As you can see there is a road to the left and a path that leads into the woods on the right. Head RIGHT to reach Kuli'ou'ou ridge trail. The left path is the one we will take back from the western ridge during our return trip.
After walking in the woods a short way, you will reach this fork. The Ridge Trail is the one we are taking. I've never done the valley trail, it just doesn't have the same appeal. Maybe some day...
The hike starts gaining elevation quick, but with enough switchbacks to make it tolerable.
And early on, there's a couple points where you can see some of the valley and Hawaii Kai.
But soon the lookout points go away as you dive deeper into the trees. The terrain will change from dirt to pine needles, which serves as the first mental checkpoint that progress is being made. Just keep moving. This trail is well marked with many pink ribbons guiding your way.
I don't know what type of trees these are, but I love them. Something about the way the notches symmetrically line the trunk is so nice to look at. While this part of the hike may not have expansive views, it really was pleasant to walk through on a crisp morning like mine.
After a short while you will reach this picnic area, covered in traditional Hawaii Art. It's a good spot for a quick break because this hike is about to get a bit steeper...
I think this is the trickiest part of Kuliouou Ridge. It's quite steep and the footing is tough because it's all tree roots. If it's wet, it is even harder. Watch your footing and take your time. Walking sticks are encourage for those who need them
Once you make it up that slope, you will reach this downed tree, which makes for some good photo ops. To me it looks like a gate... a gate to the unknown. Well, not really. But it is a gate to the next segment of the hike...
Which is stairs! And lots of them! These aren't Koko Head Crater tough, but they will definitely make you sweat. These stairs do come with a reward...
And that reward is incredible views! Since you are finally above the treeline, all the wonders of the Leeward side start to come into view. This is the back side of Koko Head Crater.
And here you have the oh so popular Diamond Head.
And a photo of what we've accomplished so far. I love how you can see the stairs, parallel ridges, and coastline, all in one shot.
But we're not quite there yet, we gotta keep climbing!
We made it! This is the summit of Kuli'ou'ou Ridge Trail. The view sometimes gets covered by the clouds, but today it is looking pretty clear. Here's a view looking south. That small island masked in the sunlight is Rabbit Island, just off the coast of the Makapu'u Lighthouse Trail.
And here the windward side comes into view, with the good ole' Mokes off Lanikai beach.